Monday, June 11, 2012

How to repair a broken fin plug on a short board



There is still hope for this discarded short board. 2 days and a few materials will have this board back in riding shape.



The main repair here is to set a new FCS fin plug on the left side of the tail, shown below:





Pulling the fin out too quickly or without the fin screws completely loosened can result in this type of damage, with a gouge below the rear fin plug and a gaping hole in front.





First, dig out the old resin completely and make sure the inside foam is dry.





Next, carve away the loose pieces of fiberglass around the fin plug hole and the gouge.





This new FCS fin plug cost $5 at a local board shop.





The rear fin plug is still intact, which makes this repair much easier. The new front fin plug should fit level inside of the existing hole.





This is the board at the same stage of repair, viewed from the other side. When you are ready to make the repair, make sure there are 2 surfaces that allow the board to lay level, one in the shade and one in the sun . The backs of 2 chairs make a good setup. You can adjust the level of the board with a folded t-shirt placed under the board.






All you need to make the repair: sanding resin and hardener (in bottles), Q-cell filler, popsicle sticks for resin mixing and application, a small disposable cup, and various grades of sandpaper. A pair of latex gloves, a well ventilated area, and mixing the resin on a sunny day are also good to have. You can find everything at a surf shop and a hardware store. You will also need a drill and a large drill bit.





In a shaded and cool area, mix 2 tablespoons of the resin with 10 drops of the hardener. Add the Q-cell filler in small amounts, until the consistency is medium (not too thick or too thin). Fill in the fin plug hole entirely. Make sure the resin mix is level with the rest of the board surface. I had extra resin mix, so I added a line over the gouge below the rear fin plug, for extra protection.






Once the resin mix is where you want it, place the board in the sun. This will make the resin harden much faster than leaving the board in the shade. This step also helps to keep the resin mixture level with the rest of the board surface. The mixture should harden and you can remove the board from the sun after 15 to 30 minutes. Let the resin mixture further harden overnight or 24 hours.





Day 2: ready to drill a new fin plug hole.





Sand the hardened resin mixture down flat until the new surface is level with the rest of the board. Attach and secure the fin to the new fin plug and outline where the new fin plug will fit into the board, lining up with the rear fin plug slot. Use a drill and a large sized drill bit to slowly remove the area within the circle. Only drill deep enough to allow the new fin plug to fit inside and level with the surface of the board.





After the hole is drilled (not shown here), mix 1 tablespoon of the resin with 5 drops of the hardener. Fill the bottom of the hole with a small amount of the resin mixture. With the new fin plug attached to the fin, insert the fin plug into the hole and the rear fin plug should connect level. The resin should fill up around the new fin plug, but not overflow. Add the remaining resin mixture so that the space around the new fin plug is filled and level.  Also cover the line where the gouge is with a layer of the resin mixture. Once again, place in the sun for 15 to 30 minutes and then let sit overnight or 24 hours.






Carefully remove the fin. You may need to chip the hardener resin mixture off. A final sanding is the last step. Use the lowest rated sand paper (most gritty) first, then follow up with a medium grit and a fine grit.


















Ready to go!


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